Fall 2015

I am truly honored to have the opportunity to lead a study abroad program down the Mekong River this fall. I am excited to continue studying and observing the impact of large-scale hydropower on the environment and society.  The curriculum of our program will focus on China’s hydroelectric dam and engineering projects that threaten Southeast Asia’s fragile river ecology and the unique river cultures of the lower-Mekong. Many riverside communities in Laos and Cambodia rely on the Mekong for local trade, transportation, and their primary source of protein, fish. By focusing on the interdependency of people and the natural world, this semester course will explore the ways in which the demand for electricity and resource management policies are causing irreparable damage to fragile ecosystems and traditional ways of life.

It is my intention to use this blog to document the impact that large-scale hydropower is having on the Mekong River’s environment, through my eyes and the viewpoint of locals that I meet along the journey. I also hope to be able to dispel the myth of large-scale hydropower generation as being a clean and renewable energy, as well as chronicle the true impact of relocation/resettlement on those that are economically and socially vulnerable.

Through drawing attention to these issues at the environment and development nexus, it is my hope that a greater and more transparent discussion will begin to take place on the viability and cost/benefit of continued large-scale hydropower development.

无源之水，无本之本。“Water without a source, is a tree without roots”.

The Lowe Sesan II Dam (July 2014)

8-19-2015 Life Update

There have been few points during my life in which I have struggled. The major and decisive moments have gone smoothly, yet this Spring I found myself feeling anxious, lost, and uncertain about my future after graduation. Advisors and mentors had very different visions for my future. I experienced confusion, rejection, and failure; things that I was not familiar with or accustomed to facing. I was completely stressed out and genuinely unhappy.

Fed up with many aspects of my situation at that time, I moved out of my closet of a room in Washington D.C., broke up with a significant other, and decided to do this thing called Where There Be Dragons. And what a decision that was. After completing my first course all of the students, fellow instructors, and the countless friendly Chinese and Tibetan folk along the way have provided me with a new perspective, energy, and a feeling of purpose. In many ways I feel renewed. All of this travel and movement has me feeling more alive than I have felt in too long. I feel really ALIVE.

Below are a series of blog posts that I wrote during a 6 week course called “The Search for Meaning“, that looked at how an emerging Chinese middle class is finding meaning in their lives. The course had a particularly strong focus on comparative religious studies in Western China and Tibet. I hope you enjoy the insights…

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June 28th, 2015: Arrival

Two years have passed since I last called China home. In those two years I intentionally tried to put some distance between myself and everything China. Two years of living in rural China necessitated a break and a re-orientation of my perspective. My respite took the form of graduate school where I studied China’s impact from an international development standpoint and its global environmental impact. This time away has me yearning to return to see what has changed or remained constant. Our plane’s descent this morning over the innumerable factories of Guangzhou brought back memories of my first arrival in China that were fraught with shock, curiosity, stress, and self-doubt, but what remained consistent was the excitement and exaltation of arriving in a truly foreign place.

I will never forget my first arrival in China. I was giddy to begin Peace Corps training and was unable to sleep during the 15 hour flight. When we touched down in a dark and gloomy Beijing, I assumed that it was either before day break or late evening. Nope. It was 2:30pm. I had previously heard stories and seen pictures of Beijing’s pollution, but was utterly shocked at not even being able to distinguish taxiing planes through the thick haze.

My arrival in Chengdu, where Peace Corps is headquartered, immediately exposed me to the dynamism of China. Tea house lined rivers, never-ending construction with cranes and scaffolding hugging rows of new buildings, men eating spicy hot-pot and then rolling their tank tops over their protruding bellies in what I like to call a “Beijing Bikini” fashion, and much more that I certainly failed to notice. I was hooked. Even the stress induced by my inability to feed myself with chop-sticks, speak Mandarin, or understand Peace Corps TEFL pedagogy could not deter my curiosity and motivation.

Unlike my arrival in Chengdu, the dust-covered road that led to my Peace Corps site in the rural and windswept Northwest produced immense terror and self-doubt. With only a basic understanding of Chinese culture and intermediate Mandarin skills, how was I going to make an impact? How was I going to survive??? I keenly remember my first time walking through the city center where crowds gathered to fixedly stare and chat about what this tall, white, and blonde headed creature was doing in such a backwards place. I will never forget the toothless gaping mouths and the expression of utter shock on the faces of the elderly Chinese upon seeing me. I was terrified and became filled with a sense of doubt. Would the staring continue? How could I ever find happiness in such a place if I always felt harassed and devoid of personal privacy?

It is these emotions and feelings of potential hardship at arrival that I hope the students take time to understand and document. Taking stock of one’s emotions, stereotypes, and intentions at arrival will serve to provide a baseline to look back on. Without having assessed my initial feelings upon my various arrivals in China, I would have never been able to appreciate the small victories and opportunities that were presented to me, despite living in a rather bleak area of the country. I look forward to reliving my first arrival in China through my students eyes. I eagerly anticipate them losing themselves and then finding themselves throughout our travels, during the course of which their worldview and complacency will be shaken. Above all, I hope that the students can get a sense of all that they have the potential to bring to the places that we will be visiting and develop a greater degree of solidarity with their fellow humans. Renowned travel writer Pico Iyer states, “arrival puts us back, ideally, in a child’s sense of everlastingness, a future without boundaries”, I could not agree more…

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July 8th, 2015 – A Great New Perspective

I have always felt better on the move. My parents have told me that as soon as I learned to walk, I was running. In many ways I have come to define my life and daily routine through running. A life motto, coined by my cousin, that I passionately live by is, “always attacking, never surviving”. It is this motto that motivated me to twice run the Great Wall Marathon and that has launched me into a life of travel, adventure, and inquiry. Rarely do I willingly slow down this fast paced nature, as complacency terrifies me. It is through my current experiences on this course that I am obtaining a greater understanding of my past self.The recent student orientation and camping adventure on the Great Wall allowed me the opportunity to fully comprehend my past experience on the Great Wall, as well as my prior life in China in a way that I would have never expected.

I usually find running to be a mind clearing and relaxing activity.  However, running in China is a cause of stress, more so than a release.  You get stared at as a foreigner here.  These are piercing stares that know no shame.  Stares that you can feel without seeing.  They are usually honest and curious stares, but can crack even the kindest of people. But a foreigner in shorts?  Running?  Why would anyone do such a thing?  A typical training run in China usually involves some combination of acrid smells from children’s fecal matter, unknown food by-product sludge that people throw into street drains, and nearly being turned into road kill by an overzealous taxi driver. All of which are the last thing you need when trying to let off steam.

In all of my training runs and preparation for the Great Wall marathon I ran angry. I was frustrated by the corrupt English department staff at the university that I taught at, the constant harassment that I had to endure walking the streets, and the loneliness that I felt as an outsider. As an immature 22-year-old I failed to cope with these emotions in a proper manner and allowed the tumultuous situation that I was in dictate my perspective on China and my life as a whole. I put up walls, turned inward, and became a cold person that was nothing like my former self.

I raced as I had trained, angry and attacking. The Great Wall marathon inflicted upon me the greatest physical and mental stress that I have ever experienced. At mile 22 I started to crumble mentally. I stood at the foot of a mountain, eyes closed, breathing heavily, trying to summon up the mental strength to convince myself that I could put one foot in front of the other and finish. For the majority of mile 23 I crawled up the stairs on all fours.  Leaning into the mountain and using my hands to pull myself forward took some of the pressure off my cramping calf muscles. I even went a bit crazy, yelling at myself in the third person, “You are a COWARD Brendon, a coward!!!”. I finished fifth overall. I hobbled away proud of what I had accomplished, but failing to consider the greater historical, cultural, and personal significance of what I had just done.

I find it extremely difficult to leave a place that I really connect with. I always tell myself that I will be back some day, but I know that there is a good chance that I never will. This was my relationship with the Great Wall in 2013. I had assumed that my business with the Great Wall was complete. I had hammered the race, made lasting memories, and had a connection to the place that few others could identify with. Yet my perspective was shortsighted and selfish. I was running for myself and for my own benefit, without thinking about the bigger picture.

I was able to get a glimpse of the “bigger picture” through a shared group experience hiking and camping on the Great Wall. I was able discover what I had overlooked in my previous rushed anger. I found solitude, beauty, and an area for potential personal growth. Watching the sun rise from the top of a guard tower at 4:30 in the morning, while in a daze of meditation and semi-consciousness, a plethora of questions arose. Why was there a need to construct a wall in a location where the natural environment provided sufficient blockades to militaristic advance? What kind of supply chains were constructed to allow for the creation of this wall? How many forests were chopped down to fuel the brick making furnaces that were required to construct the wall? How lonely would life be as a guard in one of the smaller towers?

My thoughts then turned to viewing the wall as something greater that could be applied to my own life and personality. What about the walls that I have put up in my own life to mask my insecurities? I found myself deep in contemplation about how I could potentially do away with the coldness and shyness that I occasionally exude. I sincerely desire to tear down these walls (as I write “tear down these walls” I imagine Ronald Reagan yelling at me as emphatically as he had yelled at Mikhail Gorbachev), so that I can become a warmer and more compassionate person. A person that is emotionally capable to feel and give more.

After the Great Wall Marathon, I hobbled and waddled gingerly back to a shuttle bus without giving much thought to the location or significance of what I had just experienced. It was a time in my life at which I was numb and merely going through the motions. I had attacked, barely survived, and did not bother to search for any greater meaning. This time on the Great Wall was different. I found myself provided with a fresh and new perspective. Watching perhaps one of the most beautiful sunsets that I have ever seen, with the Great Wall of China as a backdrop, fellow instructors/friends and students by my side, I thought to myself that I wouldn’t mind slowing down and staying in this moment…

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July 22nd, 2015 – Changes in Xia He: Economic vs. Spiritual Development 

Xiahe 2012: While serving in the Peace Corps I had heard the more senior volunteers talk about Xiahe as a place that you must visit. I knew it was a Tibetan area, but I had very few expectations besides beautiful scenery and open country, which one comes to crave after months in a claustrophobic Han Chinese city. In 2012, Xiahe was on the foreign tourist route through Northwest China, while Han Chinese tourists were few and far between.

The northern part of Xiahe where the bus drops off is little different from other Chinese cities. The paved roads, sound of construction, and formal economic activity stops abruptly as one moves further south. When looking down at Xiahe from the mountains above, the border between Han and Tibetan areas could not be more distinct, as concrete buildings and cranes give way to mud houses and golden topped monasteries.

I remember feeling dizzy when observing the sheer number of Tibetan pilgrims walking the kora for hours on end. The flow of worshippers seemed never-ending. The click of prayer beads, creaking sound of wooden prayer wheels turning, and several individuals doing prostrations in which their chests and forehead lie completely flat on the dusty ground had me mesmerized. Xiahe felt otherworldly. The atmosphere of unrelenting devotion to the Tibetan Buddhist faith and tradition gave way to emotions of sincere reverence and respect. Several days in Xiahe had me feeling spiritually uplifted and I knew that this place of Tibetan pilgrimage would always hold a special place in my heart.

In 2012 I departed Xiahe feeling high on life. I left wishing that everyone could find something in their lives that they are devoted to and passionate about. At that time I did not know what I would devote myself to, but I hoped that I would have the courage to throw myself entirely into whatever the endeavor may be, just as the Tibetans of Xiahe passionately devote themselves to their faith and traditions.

New Developments in Xiahe 2015: The Xiahe that we found earlier this month still has the Tibetan pilgrims and a lesser degree of spiritual reverence can still be found, however, much of the recent development and changes have left me increasingly concerned for Xiahe’s future.

In what was previously a part of the Tibetan community, an area of simple mud houses for monks and lay people, there is now a massive tourist center and parking lot. The tourist center’s design was meant to blend in with the surrounding Tibetan monasteries, but it looks very much out-of-place. The structure is sleekly modern in an area of traditionally handcrafted buildings. I asked around amongst local Tibetans as to how this development had occurred. True to Chinese Communist Party form, the Tibetans previously living in this area were forcibly resettled and given ‘adequate compensation’.

The tourist center serves as the arrival point for the bus loads of Chinese tourists that are now travelling in increasing numbers. I found myself wondering what these waves of Han Chinese tourists were getting out of their travel to Xiahe and other Tibetan areas? Were they in search of greater meaning in their lives or something entirely different?

While sitting at a cafe looking over the Tibetan part of town with a former Tibetan student that hails from Xiahe, we were exposed to the reality of what the majority of Chinese tourists are seeking. We looked on in disgust as a Han Chinese family set up a video camera and then choreographed the kids and adults walking the kora and spinning prayer wheels, all the while blocking the path of Tibetan pilgrims trying to go about their spiritual rituals. When the Chinese family finished its photo shoot and blocking the path of the devout, they boarded a tourist bus without speaking to a single Tibetan or doing anything remotely authentic/genuine. I would be able to draw some solace out of the tourist center if the Han visitors were in search of meaning or a spiritual awakening, but it appears that they are not. The majority are in search of a photo opportunity, that they can then post on 微信 (WeChat=Facebook). Xiahe deserves better than being a cheap photo opportunity destination.

Economic vs. Spiritual Development: During a hike with Hakan, we revisited the stark difference that Xiahe displays between the Chinese priority of economic development and the Tibetans focus on spiritual development. China’s economic accomplishments over the last 30-40 years are unprecedented and the fact that nearly 600 million people have been pulled out of absolute poverty is astounding. Despite these accomplishments and greater prosperity for Chinese citizens, it is clear that many people, despite being more well off economically, are feeling empty and are compelled to search for something more. On the other hand, many Tibetans in rural areas and harsh environments live in extreme poverty and endure what we might consider a “material suffering,” yet they are often supremely happy and content with their lives because of their faith and spiritual development.

With that said, I found myself pondering what is the optimal level of economic and spiritual development? Does an optimal level even exist or is it entirely context/culturally dependent? What is clear to me though, is that the Tibetan’s centuries long focus on spiritual development is far more sustainable than the breakneck economic growth that the Chinese are promoting. Our environment can support Tibet’s continued spiritual development; I doubt it can support China’s continued economic growth.

Is There Hope for the Future of Xiahe? Leaving Xiahe a few weeks ago, I found myself questioning whether it was selfish of me to want these Tibetan areas to stay the same, unchanged, and in the idealized vision that I formulated in 2012. Who am I to tell Han Chinese travelers that they cannot frequent Labrang Monastery or that my vision for Xiahe’s development is superior to the status quo? Do I merely want Xiahe to stay the same because of the Western views that I hold with regards to preservation of culturally sensitive areas?

I believe that there is hope for the future of Xiahe. The Ganjia grasslands and the surrounding Tibetan communities that we visited are unchanged and exactly as I remember them from 2012. These outside locales that are more difficult to reach and require rugged travel have not yet started to be frequented by the masses of Han Chinese tourists. The environment in these areas has been preserved and the pace of life is as slow as I remembered. Sarah and Parker have both remarked that Lhasa has been –in some ways  – ruined by tourism and other development projects. In fact, Lhasa is often referred to as “Little Sichuan” by many Han migrants and some visitors often remark how much is it beginning to resemble other Chinese mega-cities. I wonder if the preservation of the Ganjia grasslands and other oases of pure Tibetan culture will be saved at the cost of sacrificing cities like Lhasa and Xiahe to Han Chinese and Communist Party inspired development models. In the end, I hope that Tibetans are afforded a voice in the development of their communities and holy lands. They deserve it…

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July 31st, 2015 – Climate Change’s Impact on Tibetan Nomads

Our journey recently found us  transitioning from the relative comforts of an agricultural Tibetan homestay to that of a nomadic Tibetan homestay. Reaching the nomad’s summer encampment required a lung burning and air sucking hike to their location at close to 4,000 meters in elevation. The welcoming atmosphere, cheerful smiles, and caring warmth remained the same amongst the Tibetan nomads, however, the livelihoods that sustain nomadic people has little in common with the Tibetan families that comprised our village homestay. These differences provided a unique perspective with regards to human dependence on the environment and the uncertain future that these people face.

I take pride in being an environmental steward and strive to limit my impact upon the environment. Whenever I travel to new places I always seek to understand the locals relationship with their environment and any problems that confront the region. Usually I am the one asking prying questions to determine whether issues of environmental degradation are being addressed, but before I could inquire into what these nomads are doing to preserve their environment, our guide pointed out a sign that displayed a local environmental protection organization’s rules and regulations for traveling on the grasslands.

Our guide discussed at length how in the Qinghai Lake region climate change is already having a significant impact on the local environment. The number of rivers that feed into Qinghai lake have decreased from 49 in 2012 to less than 40 in 2015, with many of the remaining rivers under stress from development and erratic water levels. In addition, climate change is degrading the quality of the grasslands. The guide commented that more land is now required to support the same amount or fewer yak and sheep because of the grasslands rapid degradation.

Tibetan nomads are keenly aware of any changes in their environment. The nomad’s dependence on their flocks of sheep and yak require them to be cognizant of grassland conditions, as the quality of these grasslands directly influences the amount of animals that each family can maintain. In order to ensure the sustainable use of the grasslands Tibetan environmental organizations are forming in an effort to protect their environment in the face of a changing climate. These organizations are comprised of members from the local area that are in charge of monitoring and evaluating environmental conditions, and when necessary, enforcing the agreed upon rules within the community.

Sadly, the efforts of Tibetan nomadic communities and their environmental organizations to protect their grasslands and livelihoods is undermined by Chinese government policy. The Chinese government is in the final stages of a 15-year campaign to settle millions of pastoralists and nomads. This massive experiment in social engineering is based partly on the official view that grazing harms grasslands, yet most ecologists believe that the scientific foundations of nomad resettlement for the sake of grassland protection are dubious. I am of the opinion that this policy is a sad excuse to resettle and gain greater control over people who the communist party views as backwards barbarians and are enacting this policy with environmental protection as their means. The grazing of animals on the Tibetan plateau has been occurring sustainably for thousands of years, but now, according to the communist party this practice suddenly threatens the source off the Mekong, Yellow, and Yangtze rivers. This claim by the communist party, among many others, screams of hypocrisy.

If measured by the accumulation of material possessions, these resettled nomads could be considered better off, but when looked at in any other respect the reality is much different. Government-built relocation centers are notorious for their chronic unemployment/underemployment, alcoholism, and the fraying of ancient traditions. Relocations are often accomplished through coercion, leaving former nomads stranded in grim, isolated locales. Protests by displaced herders occur almost weekly, which prompts increasingly harsh crackdowns by security forces that contribute to the rising number of Tibetans that find themselves unjustly incarcerated.

Looking over the pristine beauty of Qinghai lake, I said goodbye to my host father and found myself wondering for how many more years his family will maintain their nomadic lifestyle. I truly cherished the unique experience of being able to experience a way of life that may cease to exist within my life span. I will never forget my host father leading Parker, Sonjay, and myself out to our “sheep guarding” tent to protect the flock against wolves and then the laughter that ensued after our host father vigorously tucked us in under a pile of blankets. The memory of my host father’s smile while explaining the cancer healing benefits of tsampa (a combination of roasted barley flour, butter, dried cheese, and sugar) will forever hold a special place in my memory.

What I struggle to imagine though, is the anger that my host father will one day feel as he reflects on the loss of his independence. I fear that the demands of a cash economy and the belief that his family was displaced with false assurances will be too much for him to cope with. For centuries Tibetan nomads have managed to avoid a tragedy of the commons scenario and live a life of minimal environmental impact because of their deep connection with and respect for the land. The current tragedy is not of the commons, but that the communist party is managing to wipe out entire indigenous populations within the span of a few years…

Phnom Penh 10k

Hem and I pre-race

The 4pm start of the Phnom Penh 10k was worrisome because of the potential for intense summer heat.  I was relieved to wake up Saturday morning to cloudy conditions.  The clouds carried heavy spurts of rain that are common in Cambodia during the rainy season.  The rain did its part in keeping temperatures manageable, but unfortunately turned many parts of the course into massive mud slicks.  

The start of the race was just across the traffic choked Japanese Bridge.  After the 3k finished, and the sky opened up once more, the 10k was set to start at 4:30.  A few hundred people grouped together on a small segment of the street as motorbikes whizzed by to our left.  All the Cambodians and those able to understand the Khmer language started to count down from 10, as I tried to look at the fingers of the race organizer in front of me, “BEI, PI, MUOYYY…”

Hem and his other olympic buddy immediately separated themselves with their blistering pace.  I was able to stay in contact with them for the first mile, but thereafter they gradually began to pull away.

The second mile of the race went through a very impoverished community/shanty town whose dirt paths had massive ruts from the heavy rain.  The trail conditions forced runners to tiptoe around puddles and slow down significantly to avoid falling.  While running past cows, chickens, stray dogs, and the tin/wood huts that lined the trail it was interesting to look at the expressions of the community members.  Some were happily smiling at the site of a shirtless white dude running by, but others gave me some very curious and surprised glares.

The remainder of the race traced the banks of the Tonle Sap and Mekong Rivers.  The area along the rivers was scenic and devoid of heavy traffic, but left the runners exposed to strong wind gusts.

I had a final watch time of 37:49, good enough for third overall (Hem was the winner with a time of 34 minutes and change).  The race organizers were nice enough to put a victory banner up for me to run through, which was fun.  Below are my splits…

Mile 1: 5:51

Mile 2: 6:01

Mile 3: 6:13

Mile 4: 6:22

Mile 5: 6:11

Mile 6: 6:12

Finish: 37:49

Awards Ceremony in which I was presented with a pair of new headphones and $20

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On a side note that is completely unrelated to running, after the race on Saturday night a few friends and myself took Hem out for celebratory drinks.  It took a very small amount of beer to get Hem feeling good.  At the outdoor restaurant/bar that we were drinking at they had a computer hooked up to the stereo system, which allowed customers to play their favorite music on YouTube.  My friends would request chill beats, the creepy sex-pats would play soft rock/oldies, and Hem Bunting played the entire Titanic soundtrack. Hem said that Celine Dion’s music “spoke to him”…

While at a disco later that night, Hem insisted on wearing his large Skull Candy headphones that he was given as a prize for winning the race.  They looked very cool, however, at no point were they ever plugged into an MP3 player or phone…

Lower Sesan 2 (LS2) Dam Visit and Northeast Cambodia…

The opportunity to meet with indigenous community leaders and witness the impact of a massive hydropower project first hand were not my only reasons for being excited about traveling to northeast Cambodia.  Interning at the Vishnu Law Group has been my first experience working in an office environment.  I am glad that it has taken 25 years for me to have this experience, because I absolutely detest being inside staring at a computer for hours on end (though I do accept that my career will at some point involve this kind of task).  I have found that I can only be productive for two-hour time intervals, before I start losing interest and feel the need to change location or run around.

On the 17th of June we left the office in Phnom Penh and traveled to Stung Treng province (near the Laos border) to meet with some local NGO’s that are helping communities effected by the LS2 dam project.  The drive was slow as most of the roads north of Kratie are not paved.  The bumpy ride that straddled the Mekong River was manageable though, as all the entertainment I needed was staring out the window at the beautiful Cambodian countryside and observing rural life.

Stung Treng

The mighty Mekong

Phanna looking oh so cool

One thing that I had not anticipated seeing was the presence of Islam in predominantly Buddhist Cambodia.  Along parts of the road that bordered the Mekong there were multiple mosques and many women wearing headdresses.  There were 150,000 to 200,000 Muslims in Cambodia as late as 1975.  However, persecution under the Khmer Rouge eroded their numbers.  In 2009, the Pew Research Center estimated that 1.6% of the Cambodian population, or 236,000 people were Muslims.  My colleague Phanna informed me that most Muslim men in Cambodia are fishermen.

Mosque on stilts

The most depressing and eye-opening part of the trip was witnessing the extent of deforestation.  I knew that economic land concessions were granted by the ruling political party (CPP) to those that are well-connected and that timber has been used to finance president Hun Sen’s political regime, but I was shocked to see the clearance of massive swaths of land.  In the areas that were not recently clear-cut there were rubber plantations with rows of small skinny trees where rainforest used to be.  At times it seemed as though the entire northeast was one big rubber tree plantation.

The Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations estimates that Cambodia has the third highest deforestation rate in the world (Nigeria and Vietnam are worse). The principal causes of deforestation relate mainly to institutional/governance issues and the rapid pace of economic development.  Large-scale agro-industrial expansions (like rubber plantations) are currently the largest driver of deforestation.

In order to meet the indigenous communities that will be effected by the LS2 dam we were forced to traverse narrow dirt roads with crater like pot holes.  The only other vehicles we encountered were trucks transporting freshly cut lumber.  The forest surrounding the dam site has already been cleared (legally), but there have been reports that luxury woods are being illegally logged from outside of the concession area and stored in the reservoir site, as a diversion, and then exported to Vietnam.  Villagers reported that every night approximately 10 to 15 trucks are exporting illegal lumber.  In other parts of Ratanakiri province ethnic minorities that previously practiced sustainable farming have lost their farmland because of land grabs by government/private companies.  The companies argue that they are helping the people by providing employment opportunities, but in reality they end up decreasing the people’s already low standard of living since they depend on forests for their survival.

😦

When we arrived at the soon to be effected community we were escorted into the house of the village leader.  Sitting in a circle on the floor of the house we discussed the current situation and what can be done to address the inadequate compensation that has been offered by the developers.  The proposed resettlement land has poor soil for farming and the compensation for lost fruit trees is nothing compared to the value of fruit that is produced by the trees each year.  There is also the issue of respectfully transporting deceased ancestors and holy places.  This issue has been raised by the communities, but has not been addressed by the private companies or district officials.

Some of the community members are willing to be relocated and accept the proposed compensation, which is problematic because this divides village members and prevents them from speaking with one voice to NGO’s/district officials.  It was explained that there are three groups that have formed within the community.  Group 1: this group includes people willing to accept compensation.  These people are primarily newcomers to the area with little land.  The elderly are also part of this group.  Group 2: this group is also willing to accept compensation, but only because they have been manipulated or threatened by local authorities.  These people are too scared to go anywhere but the market and will not listen to NGO’s.  Group 3: this group is not willing to accept any of the proposed compensation.  These people are typically farmers with big pieces of land and livestock.   The leading community representative estimated that 70% of the community members are not in favor of accepting the terms of compensation, where as 30% are willing to be relocated and accept compensation.

Community members discussed that during the initial stages of the dam project a Vietnamese company visited the village to document land holdings and the few possessions that the villagers have.  Pictures were taken with the head of every household holding a placard in front of their body.  The placard was in Vietnamese, and the villagers later found out that the writing was related to the villagers unknowingly giving their consent to cooperate with the dam project.  Villagers that refused to have their picture taken were noted by the Vietnamese company and later contacted by district officials.  Also during the initial stages of the dam project local government officials visited effected villages and asked all residents to support the dam project because in their words, “it is in the best interests of Cambodia”.  For villagers that opposed the project the government official responded by telling dissenting villagers that they ought to, “Learn how to breathe underwater”.

Though I could not understand much of what was going on due to the language barrier, what I could understand was the facial expressions of how upset and scared the villagers are about their future.  These families have lived in this location along the riverbank since 1943.  They lead difficult lives and sustainably use the resources that the earth provides them, but now they are being uprooted and have an uncertain future.  The private companies funding the hydropower project (Chinese) and district officials are bullying and exploiting these villagers.  These people are incredibly vulnerable because most heads of household only received an education up to grade three and have never had to deal with legal documents and have no idea how to successfully organize a form of resistance to a development project that they oppose.  What makes matters worse is that local NGO’s have been blocked from visiting the effected villagers by district officials, which leaves the uneducated villagers to fend for themselves.  It was sad to see just how vulnerable these people are to exploitation…

Soon to be effected community

I look engaged with the proceedings in this picture, but honestly I was completely zoned out since all of the conversation was in Khmai

The Sesan River

After spending the morning talking to the local villagers, we boarded two river boats and headed down river to the LS2 dam site.

Background Information on the LS2 Dam: The LS2 dam is located near the intersection of the Sesan and Srepok rivers in Stung Treng province, Cambodia.  The LS2 Dam threatens the health and biodiversity of two of the Mekong River’s most significant tributaries.  If completed, the 400-megawatt project will have a significant impact on the Mekong River’s fisheries and biodiversity.  Approximately five thousand people, many of whom are ethnic minorities, will be forcibly evicted to make way for the dam’s reservoir.  The project will also forever alter the livelihoods and cultures of tens of thousands of people living along the Sesan and Srepok rivers.

The Problems:  A 2012 study by the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences found that the LS2 Dam would cause a 9.3 % drop in fish stocks.  The largest impact of the dam will be on local and greater Mekong fisheries.  These impacts will be felt as far downstream as the Mekong Delta in Vietnam and as far upstream as Laos and Thailand.  This is particularly concerning from a human development perspective because around 80% of Cambodians primary protein source is fish.  An almost 10% reduction in fish stocks in a country that already suffers from widespread malnutrition will further impoverish and threaten the food security of Cambodia’s rural poor.

-The LS2 project was approved by Cambodia’s Cabinet in November 2012, despite the dam’s Environmental Impact Assessment (EIA) report failing to meet international best practice (“best practice” is viewed in the context of highest standards at the village, regional, and international level).  It has been found that the company hired to carry out the dams feasibility study failed to meet even minimum standards for public participation, which is the most fundamental aspect of any EIA process.

-The economic viability of this project has been called into question, especially in light of increased droughts due to climate change and upstream dam operations.

-Child labor has been observed at the dam site, with workers as young as 15 years old performing  hard labor.  They are reported to work 8 hours per day for $8 per day.

-Illegal fishing with electric traps and dynamite is taking place because according to the villagers, “the dam is almost built, and the fish will die anyway, so fishing like this does not matter”.

Basically, this will not be an environmentally friendly and clean energy hydropower project that respects human rights.  Instead, Chinese companies and powerful individuals are advancing this project with a disregard for long-term environmental impacts, human rights, and the rule of domestic/international law.

Go Green!

From beautiful and pristine forests…

Fisherman

…To the sound of chain saws and the sight of cleared land that will soon be inundated.

Approaching the LS2 Dam site

The start of construction

While we surveyed the site, I was able to speak with and translate for a Chinese construction worker that we met from Hu Bei Province 湖北省.  He said he was an employee of HydroLanCang (the Chinese company funding the project).  The construction worker has already been working in Cambodia for five years and said that he has the option to work at the dam site until it is completed in 2017.

The worker was disinterested in the impact that the project was going to have, and when I mentioned the environmental repercussions he started to talk about how, “In China we have already dammed all of our rivers, so now we will come to Cambodia to dam the rivers here” (in true Chinese fashion, he offered me a cigarette after explaining this). Unfortunately, the worker was shocked to see a Westerner at the dam site that can speak Mandarin and so most of his questions were about where I came from and how I arrived at the dam site.  After I told him that we took a boat from a village up river, he was then curious about how I got from the U.S. to Cambodia, to which I replied, “I took a boat”.  He nodded, said “en” 嗯，and proceeded to finish his cigarette.

Before leaving the dam site we came across two indigenous Cambodian men that were living in a very rudimentary hut along the edge of the river (see picture below).  These two individuals were part of a sixteen family community that used to live exactly where the dam site construction is taking place.  Twelve of the sixteen families accepted compensation of $500 to be resettled.  Four of the families are holding out for better compensation terms, and that is why these two men have refused to move and continue to live in destitute conditions next to the construction site.

It was noted that the villagers that have accepted the $500 compensation ended up receiving very little of the money that they were promised because district officials and village leaders take a significant percentage of the compensation (corruption).  This leaves the displaced villagers with little to start their lives over with.  Construction at the dam site started without the people’s consent.  At some point they will have to move, whether or not they choose to accept compensation.  The situation that these two individuals are in seems utterly hopeless and they seemed physically/mentally drained from living next to construction that proceeds 24/7…

Where two displaced villagers reside in hopes of getting proper compensation

Waiting, and waiting, and waiting for either the water to rise or the companies to adequately compensate them…

From the dam site we traveled further into Ratanakiri and Mondulkiri province to meet with other local NGO’s…

Meeting with 3SPN in Ratanakiri

My Take Away from this Trip:  Prior to living in China where almost every waterway is altered beyond recognition I had always regarded hydropower as being a source of environmentally friendly and clean renewable energy.  Living in China and this recent experience in Cambodia has highlighted how damaging large-scale hydropower projects can be on the environment if they are implemented without the necessary environmental impact studies.  This is not to say that all hydropower is bad.  99% of all power production in Norway comes from hydropower and they have been successful in mitigating the long-term environmental impacts of their projects.  However, Cambodia and other developing countries do not have the institutional strength and overall transparency of a Scandinavian country to implement large-scale infrastructure projects that respect the environment.

The balance that is constantly discussed between economic development and environmental conservation is playing out here in Cambodia with the LS2 dam. Cambodia is one of the poorest countries in southeast Asia and desperately needs new energy sources to drive its garment industries and growing cities.  Unfortunately, I doubt that there is a feasible solution to this imbalance in a country with a corrupt government and where reckless Chinese developers have undue influence…

Yeak Laom Volcanic Lake, Ratanakiri

Mondulkiri

Python!

Race Report: Phnom Penh International Half Marathon

The fourth annual Phnom Penh International Half Marathon had an early 6 a.m. start. Unfortunately for the participants, the cool weather from days past did not persist, as the temperature was 80 degrees at the start with 89% humidity.  This was the only time I can ever remember lining up for a race having already broken a sweat from a light warm up…and it was 6 a.m!!!

At the start of the race three Cambodian Olympians (one is technically Japanese, but has Cambodian citizenship and competes for Cambodia’s national team) took off and immediately established their superiority over the rest of the field.  I watched them pull away as I stuck to my pre-race plan of staying conservative, for fear of blowing up with the oppressive heat/humidity.  The competitive aspect of my race was over within the first mile, as from then on I was all by myself to take in the sites and many smells of Phnom Penh.  Thankfully I had two cyclists from the local bike shops team to keep me company, somewhat safe from traffic, and hydrated throughout the race.

The early portion of the race was very scenic.  The race started at the royal palace…

Proceeded around government buildings and the main thoroughfares, until the course took participants for a loop around Wat Phnom…

No elephant was present during the race 😦

And then along the touristy riverfront area on the banks of the Tonle Sap River…

The riverfront is where the scenery ended, as the course then did two laps around Koh Pic/Diamond Island.  In theory the Island is supposed to be a luxury development area, with apartments, shops, and dining options.  However, it currently resembles the empty ghost-town like development projects that I saw all over China.  To zero surprise of my own, Diamond Islands development is primarily Chinese financed and planned.  A N.Y. Times article from last month reads, “If all goes according to plan, Koh Pich — Diamond Island in English — a 100-hectare, or about 250-acre, spit of land hugging downtown Phnom Penh’s shoreline, will be home to more than 1,000 condominiums, hundreds of villas, two international schools, a replica of the Arc de Triomphe, a near-clone of Singapore’s Marina Bay Sands Hotel and one of the world’s tallest buildings”.  Much remains to be built.  Land is being reclaimed at the island’s north end for Phnom Penh’s most ambitious project, a mixed-use tower topping out at 1,820 feet.  If built, it would be one of the world’s tallest structures.

I am highly skeptical and doubt that this extravagant project is anywhere near viable in a country that has a relatively small wealthy/elite class (those that would be able to afford these amenities), has 80% of the population still engaged in small-scale agriculture, and suffers from a litany of other development related problems (malnutrition).

The later miles of the race became increasingly difficult as the sun rose, temperature increased, and traffic complicated ones running rhythm.  Below are my splits from the race (for those that care, Grandpa Elzinga) , I finished in 1:25:49 and was 4th overall.

Mile 1: 6:24

2: 6:31

3: 6:25

4: 6:23

5: 6:32

6: 6:34

7: 6:34

8: 6:30

9: 6:42 (heat starting to take its toll)

10: 6:40

11: 6:44

12: 6:42

13: 6:27

I thought the race was well-organized and exceeded my expectations.  It was great to see so many Cambodians involved in distance running and out so early on a Sunday morning, though based on the quizzical looks from many of the spectators I am not sure that your average Cambodian understood what was going on.  Regardless, it was a fun event.

I was also very happy for my friend Hem Bunting who blazed to a first place finish in a time of 1:13:22.

I was the first non Olympian to finish!

Training with an Olympian: The Story of Hem Bunting

Before moving to Phnom Penh I was able to arrange housing through an expat Facebook group.  My main requirement was cheap rent, in order to save my Georgetown stipend money for a trip to Myanmar in August.  I landed a room in a shared apartment with a few other foreigners near the Olympic Market and Stadium. After spending my first few days in Phnom Penh getting over the jet lag, I was ready to be more active.  Wherever I travel I prefer to take in my surroundings by running and biking.  I soon discovered, however, that running and biking in Phnom Penh is anything but simple.  Check out the YouTube video below to get a feel for what I am talking about…

The majority of the population uses motorbikes for transport.  In fact, the city of Phnom Penh only has one bus line, and this was added just recently.  The main streets are constantly choked with motor-bikes, tuk-tuks, long distance passenger buses, and more recently (following in the wake of double-digit economic growth for much of the early 2000’s) personal cars.  High population density and poor urban planning have resulted in all of the sidewalks being used for parking or street vendors.  This leaves little room for pedestrians, let alone runners.

Locating housing near one of the few stadiums/tracks in the entire country was not my intention, but I am glad that things worked out the way they did.  The Olympic Stadium is a hive of activity early in the mornings and in the evenings because that is the only time that people can comfortably be outside with the scalding summer temperatures.  All at once the stadium has soccer matches, people working out on the stairs/dirt track, and on the top promenade there are always groups of women dancing to Khmer music that mixes together to form a high-pitched screech with bass.  This was not a place in which I expected to meet Olympic athletes…

Great work out music!

Sros

I first went to the track to workout at 6 a.m. on a Saturday morning (not a problem because I was waking up at 5 with the time difference).  I was half way through my workout, when two Cambodian guys started running along with me.  We got to talking and it turned out that they were brothers.  The older brother (Sros) is an anesthesiologist and was excited to hear that my father also shared the same profession in America.  Sros commented that, “anesthesiologists in America make good money.  Maybe like $30,000 USD a year, yeah?”  I chuckled in agreement and tried to talk to his brother Hem, but with more difficulty because Hem’s English is poor (at times like this I realize how beneficial speaking Mandarin was for me while in China.  I often took that ability for granted while serving).

Hem and I post workout

All Hem wanted to talk about was distance running and race times.  I found out that Hem is a professional runner, probably one of the few in all of Cambodia.  He told me that his best marathon time is 2:23:29, and he has a personal best half-marathon of 1:09:04!!! The dude is fast… Hem has competed all over Southeast Asia and a few locations in Europe.  Apparently he has also lived in Kenya for a few months, where he was training with some of the best distance runners in the world in preparation for Olympic qualification.  Hem was telling me all this while slowly picking up the pace to test me to see how much I could handle.  I stayed with him for a few miles, but ended up cracking badly because I was just not accustomed to such heat, humidity, and pace.  Even after I couldn’t take any more he proudly did suicide sprints on the soccer field. After finishing his sprints and cool down, Hem came over to continue chatting.  I asked him about his racing exploits and enquired further into what his future race plans are. Drenched in sweat and with a smile on his face, Hem began to tell me the story of his Olympic aspirations…

Hem is the best at what he does in Cambodia.  He always wins the national time trial/championships.  However, he said he was not a participant in the London 2012 Olympics games.  Hem said something along the lines of, “because I am Cambodian, corruption, no Olympic for me”.  According to Hem, the reason he was not able to compete in London is because of a lack of support from Cambodia’s International Olympic Committee (IOC) and corruption.  He also explained how Japan has been trying to help with funding Cambodia’s IOC in order to get the Cambodian Olympic team competing at a higher level, but without much success to date.

Hem told me all of this with a wide smile on his face.  I have found most Cambodians to be this way.  No matter how sad their story or troubled their past may have been, they are still happy and unwilling to let setbacks drag them down.  Perhaps this is due to Cambodia’s recent history of genocide and overall turbulence.  I really have no clue, but I think it is one of those cultural oddities that makes Cambodia such an interesting place.

There was a significant language barrier involved in my conversations with Hem, so I decided to do a little more research on my own.  I found a BBC article from 2008 in the run up to the Beijing Olympics.  Hem did qualify and compete in Beijing, finishing 73rd with a time of 2:33:32.  I was surprised by this because based off of our previous conversations I had the impression that the Olympics was his ultimate goal that was yet to be accomplished.  In regards to Hem and his Olympic quest the article stated, “(Hem is) so poor he lives in the crumbling athletics stadium where he trains”, and “as he sits down on his simple wooden bed, with a mosquito net nailed above, he casts his eyes down the room.  There are dozens of similar beds with barely enough room to walk between them.  This is where Cambodia’s elite athletes live, all together in an improvised dormitory overlooking the swimming pool at Phnom Penh’s crumbling Olympic Stadium”.  I had gathered that Hem was not doing well financially, but I had always assumed that he was always at the track because he loved to train/compete, which he does, and not because he lived there…

The article went on to discuss how a lack of funding and support from the Cambodian Olympic Committee has affected his training and goals.  Hem receives an allowance of less than $50 a month which makes it extremely difficult to even cover his basic living expenses.  A quality pair of running shoes costs around double that amount, which explains the tattered state of Hem’s shoes that I see him training in everyday.  Coming from a rural area of Cambodia, and from a family with nine children, only allows his relatives to provide moral support (http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/asia-pacific/7493076.stm).  At times I feel guilty running alongside Hem in my relatively new Asics and Nike apparel.  I take the replacement of worn out shoes entirely for granted.

I also discovered in a Phnom Penh Post article stating that the reason Hem was not able to compete in London is because he fell short of the Olympic Standard qualification time of 2:18 (Hem finished in 2:23).  The article had this to say about his race, “The SEA Games silver medalist had a promising half way split of 1:09:04, but luck was not on his side as, according to his Kenya training partner and female Cambodian race participant Ly Nary, he suffered a blister at 30 kilometres, then stomach problems three kilometres later, forcing a toilet break that cost him nearly a minute and a half” (http://www.phnompenhpost.com/sport/hem-bunting-runs-personal-best-misses-olympics-mark).  While Cambodia’s IOC and corruption were not the direct reason that Hem did not make it to London, they should not be absolved from responsibility because of the lack of support that they provide to Cambodian athletes…   While I was relieved to discover that Hem has previously made it to the Olympics, I was still discouraged to learn of the conditions that he has had to overcome.  Stories of lifelong dedication, persistence, and overcoming obstacles is what the Olympics is all about and what makes international competition so great.  However, after talking with Hem and reading of the conditions that he has to endure I now have a different view of the Olympics.  Hem’s story make the Olympics out to be an event that is designed for developed nations to absolutely dominate because of their top of the line athletic infrastructure and financial support.  It is a shame that athletes like Hem, because of their countries IOC corruption and lack of support, have the deck stacked against them in their quest to be the world’s greatest and compete at the Olympics.

These are only my thoughts, and if you were to ask Hem if he feels jaded or cheated by his situation here in Cambodia, he would probably just smile and talk about how much he loves to run.  His love for running is what has kept him going and driven to be the best that he can possibly be, no matter how bleak the situation at the Cambodian Olympic Stadium may look.  He doesn’t have a fancy training kit, he doesn’t have a nutritionist, and he certainly doesn’t have a proper track to train on, but for Hem the opportunity to do what he loves and represent his country is all he needs.

For Hem’s sake, I just wish the IOC or a corporate sponsor would wake up to the challenges faced by the athletes and Olympic hopefuls in the developing world.  The Olympics is about coming together to celebrate the greatness of the world’s athletes, more should be done to give athletes like Hem a fair shot…

—

While competing in a duathlon last weekend Hem had a bike malfunction (broken fork I think).  He was catapulted over the handlebars and ended up bruising his chest/knees and lost a few teeth.   Some would have quit and immediately made an appointment with an oral surgeon, but Hem didn’t quit, he finished second overall… At the track last week some of his training buddies were joking around and giving Hem a hard time about his new and goofy looking smile, to which he would just smile back with a gaping black space where his front teeth used to be.  I yelled to Hem, “maybe because of your injuries I will beat you in the half marathon on the 15th” (Phnom Penh International Half Marathon).  With pursed lips, and the most serious face that I have ever seen from Hem, he replied, “No you wont!”.  And he is right, I will be many minutes behind, with the newfound knowledge to never joke about beating Hem Bunting…

Environmental Impact Assessment (EIA) Draft Law Conference in Sihanoukville

I arrived in Phnom Penh on May 15th, two days after having taken off from Washington D.C.  The travel was long, but uneventful.  People watching in the Doha airport was entertaining because all flights are international and have such a broad geographical reach that individuals from every major continent cross paths.  The intersection of burkas, turbans, saris, business suits, backpackers, and my khaki shorts/soccer jersey made for a diverse site.

While sitting in the back of a tuk-tuk, trying to find my apartment, I realized that the summer of 2014 will go down as the summer in which I never stop sweating.  May is the peak of the “hot season”, with high temperatures in the upper 90’s and lows in the upper 70’s.  Even in the evening while wearing a tank top and shorts, I still manage to sweat doing the simplest of activities.  My first purchase in Cambodia was a fan.  I did not anticipate that living in an apartment without AC would be an issue, but I am coming to regret this decision as even with a fan blowing a few feet from my face I still manage to sweat, and sweat, and sweat…

The law firm that I am working at (Vishnu) has a very nice office setting.  Everything is wood-paneled (ironic for an environmental law firm), with beautiful paintings of the Cambodian country side and local Khmer artwork.  Everyone has been very friendly, and I think they are happy to have someone young/foreign in the office to joke around with.  I spent my first week in the office reading legal documents and getting caught up with what the law firm is currently working on (as well as trying to understand legal jargon).  Their primary undertaking at the moment is helping the Cambodian Ministry of Environment draft an Environmental Impact Assessment (EIA) law.

You are probably thinking that the term EIA sounds nice, but what does this actually mean? The key aim of EIA is to achieve sustainable development.  Environmental impact assessment is a process of estimating and assessing impacts on the environment by development projects and activities.  It also identifies the methods and standards for preventing, mitigating, and reducing potential impacts on the environment. The key to EIA is that it allows public participation at each stage in the process to guide decision-making.  That last part about public participation is what we traveled to Sihanoukville to work on, a public consultation workshop for the draft EIA law.

I was excited to return to Sihanoukville, but knew that this trip would be different from the previous one with the “Sons of Thunder” Peace Corps China vacation crew.  I knew this trip would have fewer perfect push ups, beach parties, birthday celebration benders, and cliff jumping.  During our previous visit to Sihanoukville we were relieved to find an Indian restaurant that advertised an, “all you can eat” buffet for around $4.50.  To five active guys that at the time were subsisting on Chinese rice/noodles, nothing in the world sounded better than unlimited food, especially when our main concern while traveling was how to consume enough calories to not lose weight.  However, it turned out that the Cambodian definition of “all you can eat” meant three servings, instead of the traditional American buffet where you eat until you receive angry glares from the wait staff.  We left the restaurant disappointed, feeling cheated, and still searching for protein.

My first order of business during my return trip to Sihanoukville was to see if that Indian restaurant was still in business.  When I returned to the restaurant location I did not find the billboard advertising an all you can eat buffet, but instead, a massage parlor…karma.

Son’s of Thunda

We arrived in Sihanoukville on a Saturday evening.  The journey somehow took us all day, even though it is only 220km.  A beautiful and massive seafood dinner on the waterfront made up for the long trip.  It was also nice to get a chance to get acquainted with my colleagues, some of whom (a few of the gents) are unexpectedly different outside of an office environment…

The mini bus

One of the many pit-stops we made to see someones relative…

Dinner on the beach

The conference started on Monday.  It was held at a very Chinese like hotel/casino overlooking the Gulf of Thailand.  The event included over 100 individuals from the Ministry of Environment, the NGO community, civil society, and individuals impacted by development projects.  After a great deal of formalities and thanks were given, the conference involved an official from the Ministry of Environment’s EIA department explaining the draft law and then fielding questions from the audience.  Additionally, two international experts that have been working with Vishnu gave presentations on EIA and how environmental best practices can be applied in Cambodia.

Not a bad spot to hold a conference…

Until the second day of the conference, most of the questions and discussion from the audience had come from NGO’s and Ministry of Environment employees.  This changed when an older woman from an indigenous community got ahold of the microphone.  She said that she would not be able to face her fellow villagers back home if she didn’t stand up and speak out on the abuse that those living in rural areas face when confronted with development projects.  She began by stating where she was from and that she was illiterate until her late 40’s.  She then began to chastise the NGO’s and ministers for not letting her/other vulnerable groups have more of a voice at the workshop.

The indigenous community members main point was that development has had a negative impact on her community.  She questioned how companies are able to receive licenses to work in such ecologically fragile areas.  She was critical of the fact that there is not a section of the EIA law to support indigenous communities.  It was great that she did not hold back and went on to say something to the extent of, “the military police could care less about protecting me, they only protect the companies”.  Many of her fellow community members are too afraid to protest because they fear reprisals by the company or government.

Unfortunately, indigenous groups are often the most vulnerable to being taken advantage of by developers because they are unaware of their legal rights and what actions they can take to organize a form of opposition (Vishnu is looking to help with this).  An overarching theme that I noticed, but that was not addressed by the workshop, is the severe inequality that exists in who benefits from large-scale development projects.  The individuals that see the greatest returns live in cities (usually the well off or just less poor), and receive benefits such as cheaper energy prices/lower transport costs, where as those in rural areas are forced to resettle and often lose their livelihoods.

After the workshop on Tuesday I was fortunate enough to have the opportunity to eat dinner on the beach with members of the ministry of environment.  I was very impressed with all of them, especially when viewed in comparison to Chinese officials that I met who were often more concerned with the brand of liquor they would be imbibing than their civic duties. These Cambodian officials were Western educated, spoke many languages, and seemed genuinely concerned with preserving Cambodia’s environment to the best of their abilities.  I left the dinner feeling more hopeful for Cambodia’s environmental future than when I had arrived in Sihanoukville…

Boat Trip…

On Wednesday our plans oscillated between leaving early in the morning to head back to Phnom Penh and staying around to enjoy the beach.  Luckily, the managers chose to rent a boat for the afternoon, and I am glad they did.  We stopped by two islands, played soccer/volleyball on the beach, and snorkeled.  It was a perfect day…

 

 

Summer 2014: Phnom Penh, Cambodia 柬埔寨

Life Update:  I just recently completed my first year as a graduate student at Georgetown University where I am studying Global Human Development.  Graduate school is stressful a times, but on the whole my experience at Georgetown has been very enjoyable.  I cannot complain too much about a flexible schedule, interesting lectures, and a ton of networking opportunities (happy hours and free food!).

The graduate program that I am in at Georgetown has a summer field experience requirement.  For my field experience I will be working in Phnom Penh, Cambodia from mid-May until the end of July.  I will be working for a Cambodian law firm called the Vishnu Law Group (http://www.vishnulawgroup.com).  I will be helping Vishnu with environmental impact assessments, land rights, human rights issues, and basically anything else that I can possibly help with.  I hope that I can help in bridging the gap between my environmental knowledge and their legal expertise, to formulate law/policy that works to protect Cambodia’s natural resources and vulnerable environment.

I feel very fortunate to have this opportunity to travel abroad again.  I really enjoy Washington D.C. and Georgetown, but in many ways I find life in developing countries to be very predictable/boring.  I am more than ready to head abroad again and be of help to the Vishnu law group.  I will regularly update this blog on my experiences working and living in Cambodia for the Summer.  I also hope to do a little travel during August (hopefully Burma/Myanmar), so I will be sure to write about that as well…

Tibetan Travels Part 2: Langmusi 郎木寺

From Xia He, I headed four hours south, to the village of Langmusi.  Langmusi straddles the borders of Gansu and Sichuan province.  The village has two sets of temples, one on each side of the border.  Interestingly, each set of temples has its own unique feel.  You could even notice a difference in infrastructure between the two provinces, because of the paved roads on the Sichuan side, vs. the dirt roads on the Gansu side.

Langmusi is a small sleepy village, nestled in between mountains and grassland.  I could not believe Langmusi was actually part of China because of the remoteness and unspoiled scenery.  I envisioned Langmusi being much more reminiscent of rural Austria, than anything I had previously encountered in China. 

Besides the monasteries and breathtaking scenery there was not a lot to explore.  The weather was also very poor when we were in Langmusi.  Constant rain and temperatures in the low 50’s.  My buddy Zack and I did manage to get out into the elements and do some hiking.  However, we spent most of our time inside drinking Johnnie Walker with some Tibetan friends that we met.   

We also came across this sheep that had gotten its horns tangled in some prayer flags.  I held the back of it steady, while Zack ripped some of the prayer flags off of its horns.  The sheep looked scared/shook up, but did end up galloping away without difficulty…

While in Langmusi I was able to observe how Tibetans construct new monasteries.  Construction involves everyone in the community and is done almost entirely by hand.  The most interesting aspect of their construction was that everyone sings while they work.  Amongst the pounding of hammers, and other construction noise, was the sound of traditional Tibetan songs.  It was really cool…

Who needs nails when you have rocks?

From Langmusi, I continued my journey south to the city of Songpan (in Sichuan province).  I had to overnight in Songpan, and then caught a bus the next morning to Chengdu in order to prepare for Eco Camp…

Tibetan Travels Part 1: Xia He 夏河

*Note: This is the first in a series of posts about my travels to Tibetan areas in Gansu, Sichuan, and Qinghai province.  I have delayed posting them until now, so as to avoid any backlash/undesired response from Peace Corps or the CCP.

Go Green!

My first trip to a Tibetan area occurred during the summer of 2012.  I had just finished a summer teacher training project in Cheng Xian (成县), and did not know what to do with the week and a half that I had to kill before Eco Camp started.  Going back to my site was not an option (I detest that place), and I did not just want to sit around in Lanzhou sucking in more pollution.  I decided to head four and a half hours southwest of Lanzhou, to the Gannan (甘南）Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture.

The bus ride to Xia He was, and still is, the worst bus ride that I have ever experienced.  No it was not because of a corrupt bus driver that decides to pick up every person/animal, or drive a half hour in a random direction to drop off something to a friend to make some money.  This was the worst bus ride ever because of some street food that I decided to consume the previous night at 3 a.m. after leaving the bar.

Two hours into the bus ride, at a rest stop, I was feeling tired, but otherwise fine.  After leaving the rest stop things took a turn for the worse.  While traversing the mountain switchbacks and careening around blind corners, I started to get what is referred to as “bubble guts”, amongst the Peace Corps community.  I needed to find a restroom in the worst way.  I went up to the front of the bus and asked the driver if he could pull over.  He refused my request and told me to go and sit down.  I then explained that I was going to have 拉肚子 (translate it if you really want to know what it means) on his bus.  He again refused and told me that we would arrive in an hour.

For the next hour I clutched the hand rest connected to the seat in front of me and tried to think happy thoughts (but mainly thought about how much I hate Chinese bus drivers).  I was a complete mess.  My stomach hated me, and I hated the delicious fried noodles from the night before.

We pulled into the Xia He bus station and I was the first one off the bus.  I scurried over to the public toilets, and paid the lady outside .5元 (like .05 cents).  The ecstasy of finding a toilet was completely erased when I actually looked inside at the bathroom situation.  It was absolutely disgusting, beyond repulsive.  The Xia He bus station bathroom is definitely in my top 3 most disgusting bathrooms in China (that is saying a lot).  I stood in the doorway contemplating whether I had time to search for an alternative toilet.  My stomach then told me that I did not.

I will spare you of any more details, and just leave it at that I will forever be scarred by what occurred…

—Xia He and less disgusting stories…

The city of Xia He is divided into two very distinct parts.  The Han Chinese area is no different from any other Chinese village, but once you cross into the Tibetan part of the city, you enter a different world.  The houses are completely different, made out of clay/mud and wood.  Another thing that you notice in the Tibetan part of town is that it is much quieter.  The Tibetan part of town does not have cranes and cement mixers at every corner.  It is a very relaxed environment, where you have incense or spiritual offerings burning, instead of garbage.  It was odd being in a city where cultural/ethnic lines are so distinct and visible.  You seriously cross a street, and find yourself in a different world.

Needless to say, I spent most of my time in the Tibetan part of town.  One of my favorite things to do in Xia He is to walk around the outside of the monasteries.  The Labrang Monastery was established in the 18th century, but like most of everything else in China, it was destroyed during the cultural revolution, and subsequently rebuilt.  The outside walls are lined with prayer wheels where Tibetan pilgrims and locals walk clockwise around the compound spinning the prayer wheels, praying under their breath, and fingering prayer beads.  Some of the pilgrims have a much more deliberate and slow method of praying.  They lie flat on the ground (even with their face/forehead in the dirt), then stand up with their folded hands reaching up towards the sky, and then take three steps forward.  Some pilgrims repeat this process for hundreds, maybe even thousands of miles. 

It is difficult to describe, but there is something very soothing and relaxing about observing the Tibetans go through their prayer rituals.  The devotion and discipline that they have with carrying out their prayers and religious traditions is like nothing else I have ever encountered.  It is similar to the feeling that I got while in the Blue Mosque in Istanbul.  Both are truly special places…

Another favorite Xia He activity of mine is hiking around the surrounding mountains.  They offer a spectacular view of the monasteries, and the opportunity to talk to monks that take daily hikes or picnic/camp in the mountains.  It is nice to talk with monks away from the city, and outside the earshot of the Han Chinese and Chinese Communist Party (CCP).

I always have interesting conversations with the monks.  Topics range from Tibetan culture, American culture, life, current events, etc etc…to my favorite topic that is always discussed, which is our mutual hatred of the CCP and how they oppress the Tibetan people.  I have heard many stories, but most include tales of complete disrespect of religious tradition by communist cadres, to stories of imprisonment, beating, and sadly, death.

One of the more interesting stories I was told by a monk involves the Apple I-Phone.  Both of the times that I traveled to Xia He, I noticed that all of the monks had I-phones.  I wondered why a monk would need an I-phone, and I even felt a little self-conscious pulling out my $15 Nokia phone around them.

The story I was told by a monk was that a few years before Steve Jobs death, he had a meeting with the Dalai Lama.  During the meeting the Dalai Lama asked Steve Jobs to promise that he would develop a Tibetan language writing platform for the I-phone, so that the Tibetan people could communicate using their own language, instead of Mandarin.  Long story short, Steve Jobs lived up to his promise.

The benefit of this goes beyond the convenience of Tibetans being able to use their own language to communicate. I would imagine that Tibetans are now able to talk about more sensitive subjects via text, because the Chinese government sensors would have to be updated and adapted to catch traces of dissent.

Rayban Baby

Also while hiking you run into Tibetans that are camping on mountain slopes while they keep an eye on their yaks and goats that graze on the surrounding grasslands.  They camp in beautiful and colorful tents.  The tents are works of art.  These people are very friendly and always invite me into their tents to chat, drink beer, and eat.

On one occasion a Tibetan girl grabbed a steel bucket, and proceeded to subdue a yak and milk it.  She then passed me the bucket and told me to drink.  Though the yak milk was as fresh as it could possibly be, it still did not taste very good.  I drank it as if I was taking a shot of alcohol, quick and without smelling it.  After the shot of yak milk, I smiled and gave her a thumbs up in satisfaction.

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Above I have described and attached pictures of the so-called “open” Xia He.  What I mean by “open”, is the times during the year that foreigners are allowed to travel to Xia He and when it is not completely occupied by the Chinese military.  When talking with monks and other Tibetan locals, they even described “open” times as being unbearable.  This made me wonder what life would be like when things were on “lock-down”.

The Chinese communist party is paranoid with maintaining complete stability and “harmony”.  To guarantee and ensure  their screwed up vision of “harmony” if accomplished, they will often turn off the internet in Tibetan areas, and declare a state of emergency in which the military invades and does away with any liberty/freedom.

One of my favorite students at Longdong College is Tibetan and from Xia He.  I would regularly take him out to lunch, in exchange for him teaching me about Tibetan culture and religion.  I even tried to study the language for a brief period, but that proved to be far too ambitious of a task.  As my student became more comfortable talking with me, he started to open up much more about what life is truly like in Xia He.  As I found out, he truly hates the communist party for what it has done to Xia He and Tibetans everywhere.  Specifically, he is upset with the lack of freedom and the increasing number of Han Chinese settling in traditionally Tibetan areas.  He is scared that his generation of Tibetans will lose their language/writing, culture, and traditions.

Here is an example of what my student is frustrated with.  Below is a picture of one of his primary school books.  The brain washing starts at an early age…

Why???

Most shocking were the pictures that my student showed me of what Xia He looks like when it is on “lock-down”.  Below are some pictures that were taken by my student this past winter during the Tibetan New Year.

I will let the pictures do the talking and spare you much of my commentary because I think it is quit clear how I feel about the CCP’s treatment of Tibetans and other minority groups.  How the CCP justifies the abuse that it inflicts on these wonderful people and their unbelievably compassionate leader the Dalai Lama, is beyond me and utterly frustrating…

Notice the person on the roof (top left of the picture), my student told me that he had a rifle, and was acting as a sniper, in case any Tibetans attempted to light themselves on fire…

Who knew prayer was sooo threatening/dangerous???

Pictures like these, and all the stories of maltreatment/abuse committed by the CCP against Tibetans not only frustrate me, but make me overwhelmingly angry.  I never came to resent my Peace Corps service, or any of my students for their CCP altered and brainwashed views towards Tibet.  However, returning to my site, a backwards Han Chinese dominated city, was incredibly difficult after being in Tibetan areas.  After feeling the purity and spirituality of Tibetan culture, returning to the constant harassment that I faced at my site…SUCKED.

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On to Lang Mu Si—>郎木寺